Itinerary: 5 Nights in Ireland

The “season” for visiting Ireland is between March and October – this is when you’ll find the most open shops and restaurants, dreamy weather, and visible sites to see. So, naturally, I took a solo trip in November (the second week to be exact, since I know many of us travelers appreciate those specifics). Sometimes inspiration strikes and it won’t be deterred (especially when you only grant yourself three weeks from the point of inspiration to the departure time). 

Even though I visited the Emerald Isle outside of the normal time frame – since I decided my own prime season, clearly – below I’ve listed out my amazing, packed, beautiful solo-female journey through Ireland. Starting and ending in Dublin and covering what I described to friends who asked about my trip as “across and swooping down and around the lower half” of the country. I know, I have a real way with words.

Day 0.5 – NYC to Dublin

To detail all the events of my trip, let’s start with the red-eye. I flew out of New York City on an evening red-eye (around 9:30 PM EST)  flying direct to Dublin on Aer Lingus. This was my first time flying Aer Lingus – unsurprising, as this was my first time visiting Ireland – and I’m a fan. Had a full row to myself, Gaelic and English-speaking flight attendants, functioning amenities, and, overall, a very clean-feeling airplane – I know, I’m very hard to please. I’m working on it.

My flight landed in the morning, around 8:30 AM GMT, after I was able to catch a few hours of sleep on the plane (thanks to my BFF Dramamine and an inappropriately shaped “J” pillow – or maybe I’m just a pervert?). This leads us to Day 1…

Day 1 – Dublin

Since I had a lot of ground to cover in just a few days, I booked a reservation with Sixt Car Rentals and, upon arriving at the airport, headed to check out my awaiting chariot. The Irish gentleman at the counter was a true delight and had me on my way in a Smart car in no time – I kid, I expected a very small, European-style vehicle, and instead got the equivalent of a Toyota Rav-4. Also, the dude was a charmer and a chatter (and the accent had me understanding about every third word).

From the airport I headed to a dope stay – and I don’t only say that because the host, Tomas, was 420 friendly – but because his rooftop studio was perfectly primed for my day out in the Dublin city center. Coming from basically a box-sized studio apartment in New York City, Tomas’ place was a spatial palace located on the River Liffey and an easy walk from Phoenix Park, the Guinness Brewery, Temple Bar, Trinity College, Molly Malone, and more. Below is where I perused:

• Phoenix Park for a casual stroll. 
• Temple Bar area (very cute but even in November, quite touristy – if you prefer to avoid)
• The statue of Molly Malone, where a local told me her unique history 
• Trinity College 
• St. Stephen’s Green for a little one-to-one time with my Kindle
• The Doors of Dublin (surrounding St. Stephen’s Green in addition to other areas throughout the city)

Day 2 – Dublin to Galway

After a night in Dublin, I headed across the country to Galway, where I drove through beautiful countryside and breathtaking views. Just kidding, outside of the Gaelic signage the drive itself had a standard highway feel. All that to say, there are many stunning views of this country, just don’t get your hopes up on the route between Dublin and Galway (unless highways and basic bridges get your jollies off, in which case this is THE ROUTE for you). 

I stayed with the lovely Marie Louise in the city of Galway – who was the kindest host and had the cutest “land cloud” of a pup I ever did see (and that’s saying a lot coming from a cat lady). The townhouse was the perfect location for walking around this city while still being close enough for a potty break – which is consideration numero uno for this gal. Here’s what I explored:

• Quay Street, The Latin Quarter, and all the cobblestone streets of the city
• Eyre Square (which launched my appreciation for European Christmas’ since I watched them setting up the market stalls)
• Salthill Prom – a little bit of a walk from Marie Louise’s but nothing insane, and plenty of photo ops (especially if you go near sunset as I did).

Honorable mention to this pub, Cooke’s Restaurant and Wine Bar which sadly is now closed, for my best meal in Ireland. Don’t you love stumbling across a cozy pub and having a good roast chicken dinner? No? Get out.

Day 3 – Galway to Limerick

This was the start of my second favorite day in Ireland. From Galway, I really wanted to drive up to Sky Road, which I’d heard had beautiful scenery. Call me a sucker for any body of water, some rolling hills, oh, and a dash of foliage. Then I made my way down to the Cliffs of Moher – a classic and one of many drives I was thankful for my automatic vehicle, cause dem roads be winding. Also, after seeing the Cliffs, I was grateful I wasn’t accompanying Dumbledore on the search for Horcruxes, since yes, you will see these cliffs in the movie Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. 

From the Cliffs, I headed to Limerick where I stayed within walking distance of the town. Once I parked and dropped off my luggage, I walked into the city for THE BEST bowl of French onion soup of my life – I’m a gorgeous girl who loves that sweet sweet broth and will forever try to replicate this soup – from The SplitJack followed by a stellar piece of white chocolate raspberry cheesecake. To wrap it up:

• Sky Road
• Cliffs of Moher
• Limerick

I didn’t make it, but a couple of locals mentioned Bunratty Castle & Folk Park as a “must” experience. The 15th century will be calling me back – hopefully not Outlander style (which I know is Scotland) – when I return to Ireland in the future.

Day 4 – Limerick to Kenmare

This day… THIS DAY was the Irish landscape, cross-country driving day of my dreams – but with shite weather. Still, this day hits my #1 spot, buckle-up though cause it’s a lot of driving. 

Starting from Limerick, I worked my way through Adare – helloooo, thatched houses – to start the Ring of Kerry. If you can do it, drive this loop. It takes you through some of the most breathtaking scenery and is honestly so incredibly easy to follow. Phone died? Maps stop working? No worries, the signs keep you on the right path… or should I say ring? Here were my hits for the day before I spent the night in the charming town of Kenmare:

• Adare
• Ring of Kerry – I put Killorglin into my maps to get me started and then just followed along the signs for the route.
  • The sites between Cahersiveen and Caherdaniel were my top views for the day
• Kenmare – a very charming, quaint-feeling town for a night’s stay 

The above list looks light but check your time! I was up and out early and driving most of the day. You’ll get out and walk around, take photos, grab a bite or a cup of tea, and keep going. It’s a lot of drive time but some of the most beautiful coastline.

*HOT TIP*: Grab gas and a bathroom where you can – idk what it is about Europe but I guess their bodily functions operate differently. This honestly applies throughout any part of your trip through Ireland, but especially when doing these coastal or more remote loops.

Day 5 – Kenmare to Dublin

To be honest, this day was my first and only hiccup – besides the weather – that I experienced by traveling to Ireland out of “season.” I truly loved all the foliage I saw and the chilly weather throughout my trip, although I do wish the cloud coverage had lessened – since it did impact visibility a good bit. But, that’s also what I understand Ireland to be so, I embraced it.

For my last full day in Ireland, before heading home, I left Kenmare to work my way back up to Dublin, obviously with strategic spots in between. My scenic day five:

• Mizen Head – this is partly a joke since the weather was so overcast I could only hear the water crashing against the cliffs but saw nothing – aka very creepy. However, I’m noting this because my maps took me on the windiest, skinniest, death-defying road I’ve driven on to date (and keep in mind, driving on the opposite side for me here). As terrifying as it was, it was also quite charming. See photo below!
• Cork City – Another moment of honesty, I only drove through here. At this point in my trip, not-gonna-lie I was EXHAUSTED, I’d already been through a couple of cities, and with the weather being so dreary, I couldn’t be bothered to find and pay for parking, plus walk around. BUT it was a very cute city, I get the feeling I might have preferred it over Dublin so when I go back to Ireland, I plan to dedicate some time here.

Day 6 – Dublin to NYC

Ugh, this day was sad. Nothing to report here except an up and out and to the airport day, back stateside.

*HOT TIP*: if you weren’t thinking about it, plan to get a stay somewhere within easy driving distance of the airport and no parking rates. In my opinion, it’s a bit of a waste to pay for parking in the city of Dublin (or anywhere really) when you just need a place to rest your head sans sightseeing. 

Bye bye Ireland!