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Itinerary: Two Nights in the Isle of Skye, Scotland

Portree Harbour, Isle of Skye, Scotland

I heard from so many locals that the Isle of Skye is a stunning place to visit in Scotland. I planned my remaining weekends out and this was one of them. I saw videos and images all over social media about the beauty of the Isle of Skye. I was READY. And then I got there… to 25 mph winds, heavy rain, and loads of clouds. I basically got a fresh wash and blowout every time I stepped out of a shop. The thing is, Scotland is absolutely gorgeous… if you can see it. 

Nevertheless, I made the most of my trip for the weekend. I set-up my base in Portree which I highly recommend it as it’s both hella cute and a good central location for seeing loads of the Isle. Here’s what I got up to:

Day 0.5 - Edinburgh to Portree

I love a good road trip, hell I’ve made it from Portland, OR to Charlotte, NC in four days, but driving curving, wet Scottish roads in the dark for 4+ hours after a long day. Prepare yourself. Especially if you’re used to U.S. travel where there are bathroom stops and McDonalds every 4 miles - there isn’t much in between. That being said, if you can manage this during the day - the sights are stunning, it’s just a little trickier at night, be warned.

I made it to Portree in one piece, wind be damned and settled in with a hot shower, Cadbury hot chocolate, and the continuation of my Harry Potter annual binge.

Day 1 - Portree to Portree

I left Portree first thing, knowing I’d be back later to explore the town, and headed up towards Old Man Storr. As mentioned, the weather was absolute shite so much of the viewpoints throughout were covered with clouds (not to mention the wind was a living vortex every time you got out of the car), but I could still see the beauty of the landscape as I drove up. In the bright side, since the weather was so poor, I was one of only a few cars on the road. Here’s what I got up to, visibility and nature’s blow dryer be damned:

  • Old Man Storr - I mean, it was there I just couldn’t see it. But it’s an easy stop along the route (for when I come back during better weather)

  • Rigg viewpoint - Google images say it’s stunning lol

  • Lealt Falls - The lovely anecdote of Scotland is that there are waterfalls everywhere but these were some powerful falls. The wind was blowing so hard as I got near them, that I almost lost my phone to them but… worth it.

  • Idrigail Bay Viewpoint - A really pretty spot overlooking, you guessed it, the bay. Honestly, I was confused by the route my car was taking me at first but then it came into view ;) 

  • Uig Pottery - If you know me, I’m a goner for local artisans, especially pottery. This is quite a large shop, featuring the work of many artists. Let’s just say, a highland cow left the shop with me. 

  • Additional honorable mentions to the below stops that I drove past… but couldn’t see

    • The Brother’s Point

    • Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls

    • Quiraing

    • The Fairy Glen

    • Castle Ewen

The coastal views along the drive really are stunning, so even if you only see those - it’s worth it. Also, all the highland animals - sheep, cows, horses, oh my I love to see them, saturated and all.

Since my visibility was so low, I was back in Portree earlier than expected but I made the most of it walking around town and down to the harbour. I mean, why doesn’t every town have a row of colorful buildings?

Day 2 - Portree to Edinburgh

Against all odds… just kidding, the weather still was weathering this day but hell, I made the trip so the drive was going to happen. My key takeaway for this day is to potentially do this route first - aka not on a Sunday. There were a lot of local shops that I spotted along this day’s route but they were closed. Likely because many shops are closed on Sunday’s. Since the loop I drove on day one held a lot of scenery, that’s open every day, you can afford to hold and go there on a Sunday.

Starting from Portree, here is where I headed:

  • The Fairy Bridge - An easy-peasy stop along your drive, really just an old bridge but quaint and pretty nonetheless.

  • Dunvegan Castle & Gardens - This was closed but that didn’t stop me from driving by. FYI, you can’t see much if you don’t go in so it wasn’t completely worth my try-it-anyway take.

  • Sligachan Old Bridge - Right off the main route, a bridge with a really pretty backdrop.

  • Fairy Pools - I HEARD these were stunning. When I pulled my car up I could see the walk down but that was about it. Sadly I didn’t pack the full waterproof kit to warrant an absolute soaking to try and see anything closer.

  • The Coffee Bothy - I LOVED this place. Perfect spot on the route in and out of Isle of Skye. Grabbed a great sandwich, salad, and chai latte alongside a lovely chat with the owner (I think? I dunno, he had a cute dog in a Santa Claus outfit so I was captivated).

After my late lunch stop, I hit the road back to Edinburgh in an attempt to get at least half of the drive in, in partial daylight. Let’s just say the visibility and driving comfort is much easier with a little more from Ms. Sun. 

Overall, I definitely have big plans to get back to Skye in better weather but it was still a lovely trip nonetheless. I mean, it’s Scotland. Duh. You know a place is worth the hype when even in the worst of weather, it’s still a beauty. 

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