When I tell you that Buenos Aires was the most hyped destination of my trip… I do not lie. I had multiple people in multiple destinations in South America (and before), leading up to my arrival in this curiously European-vibed but South American-infused capital city, raving about Buenos Aires. The amount of “I could live there” and “ugh I wish I could have spent longer” were enough to get me psyched for this change of scenery. Leading up to Buenos Aires I was mostly in more nature-feeling environments, like Banos, Ecuador or San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, or smaller cities, like Cusco, Peru, that were by no means filled with the hustle and bustle many of us know (and love) in the NYC’s and abroad alike.   

I was excited about the change of pace, walkability and hubbub, food and art scenes, and more. Since I was trying to keep a looser itinerary to flow more with the backpacking lifestyle, I only booked my stay in Buenos Aires a week or two before my arrival. To be honest, I got really lucky (because I wouldn’t recommend waiting until that close to arrival). I ended up staying at a family home in Palermo Hollywood - an artsy neighborhood well situated to public transport, shopping, cafes, nightlife (but not for this grandma), parks, and other activities. It’s also known for its production studios (aka the “Hollywood” element of its name) so you’ll see a lot of radio and movie studios (as well as film set-ups at your local restaurants) as you walk around. 

By the time my flight landed and my Uber arrived at my stay, it was close to 2 AM. I coordinated with my host ahead of time for that horrendous arrival hour - and paid for the extra night stay, which is 100% worth it - since I knew I wouldn’t sleep well during my 13+ hour commute from Chile. Not to mention, I didn’t want to be stuck sleeping on another airport bench until my check-in time and then spend my first full day in the city exhausted. 

Here’s how I spent my time in the vibrant Buenos Aires:

Days 1-4:

I don’t know about you but I am a wanderer. I love to take a bus/train to a new neighborhood and explore on foot for a whole day. Every cafe, bakery, bookshop, and grocery store calls my name. It also is a great way to see the diversity of a location, as no two neighborhoods feel alike (at least not exactly). These were some highlights from my first few days:

• Walk Palermo Hollywood & Palermo Soho - From beautiful murals lining the streets to pop-up events and great restaurants. These were my two favorite neighborhoods in the city, part of the larger Palermo neighborhood and conveniently located side-by-side.

• Practice Your Tango - I had a sweet local host who introduced me and another woman staying at the house to this fun tango experience at La Viruta. You pay roughly the equivalent of $5 for the evening and it covers you for a group tango learning session as well as an open dance hour following. There is a bar inside as well if you want to get off your feet after your lesson and enjoy the dancing vibes with your butt in a chair. 

• Embrace Your Tourist-Self on a “Red” Bus - Not gonna lie, I love a red bus tour. Depending on the city, they can be an affordable way to cover a lot of ground or simply enjoy an open-top double-decker view and some local insights. They are also a perfect thing to do early in your arrival as, at least for me, they let me see what areas I want to come back and explore further - if I run out of time the day of the tour (which is likely, especially in a city the size of Buenos Aires).

• Invest in a Badass Painting - With a city as vibrant as Buenos Aires, there is bound to be a big art scene. You’ll find all different types of works throughout the city but my favorite stop was at the art gallery of Roberto Jofre in the colorful neighborhood of La Boca. I couldn’t walk away without a painting and carried it around like “my precious” for the remainder of my backpacking stint.

Days 5-9:

I’m a gal who loves to be in the kitchen. If I can, I try to take some type of cooking course wherever I land, as food reflects culture and I’m all about both. Additionally, there is so much to explore in Buenos Aires that after my initial bus tour, I was hitting the ground walking to cover some serious ground in my remaining days. That being said, I was also over halfway through my backpacking stint so I wanted to take some moments to breathe without always pushing myself into uncharted territory. These are some of my most noteworthy experiences:

• Empanadas and Alfajores are Even Better Handmade by You - One morning I took a class in a nearby neighborhood where we learned the history behind the Argentinian empanadas and worked together to make our own. We also assembled alfajores before we devoured all of these yummy goods. It was a small course - only four participants - and a fun way to spend a morning. For some tips on booking cooking courses abroad, read this!

• Visit the Buenos Aires Ecoparque - This former zoo turned ecological sanctuary has a variety of animals and plants roaming the grounds. Literally. You’ll see peacocks and Patagonian maras (yeah, that was a new one for me too) just casually strolling by while you sit and enjoy your chipas. It’s a fun day whether you’re by yourself or with family! 

• Learn About the Local Drink: Yerba Mate - As you wander around Argentina, you’ll notice a lot of people carrying totes or backpacks with a thermos as well as a cup with a peculiar-looking straw. Hell, if you look closely at footage of Messi, you’ll notice him carrying his own regardless of where he’s playing. I took an afternoon class with a local Yerba Mate distributor where he not only gave me backstory on this almost strong green tea-tasting drink but also the chance to make my own variations. Loved it!

• Book a Tasty Experience - In my hunt to find all things food culture, I came across the Argentinian Experience. It’s a fun night filled with a tasting menu of food and drink (as you desire) where chefs prepare different local dishes and your various hosts teach you some history behind each as well as the culture as a whole. You also get to put on your chef hat (literally) and assemble your own empanadas and alfajores before the night is over. It is a little on the pricier side for your travel budget but it’s a fun way to meet other travelers and try an assortment from the local cuisine. 

• Grab a Pastry at Lharmonie - This place was a FIND (shared with me by a traveler I met at my stay). It’s situated on a tree-lined side street with only first come, first serve outdoor seating. You walk right up to the counter (directly on the sidewalk) to order any of the delicious pastries or savories they have left alongside an array of coffees and teas. I came back multiple times - fumbling in my pseudo-Spanish for something yummy. Highly recommend the chipas (which you’ll find in a lot of places in South America - particularly Argentina and Brazil) plus a sweet treat as a picnic lunch before heading out to a local garden to sit and people-watch.

• Get Lost in the Paseo El Rosedal Garden - The perfect picnic spot. On my last day in Buenos Aires, after an early pit stop at Lharmonie, I headed to this beautiful rose garden for a slow morning on a park bench surrounded by all the pretty flowers. It’s free to enter, simply walk in and explore. Outside of the garden, there are also trails to walk or run and lots of duck sightings all around.

I covered so much more than what I mentioned above but those were my top highlights from my days spent in this colorful capital. The weather was gorgeous, the food was yum, the neighborhoods were a joy, and the people were friendly - what more could you ask for?

Quick money callout! When you travel to Argentina there is something called the “blue dollar.” This article explains it better than I could but essentially Argentina is a country where bringing cold, hard USD with you offers a way better exchange rate. Also, when using a credit card, use a Visa as you will get charged the “blue” rate - aka try swiping an AMEX and a Visa for similarly priced goods… you’ll notice the Visa charge is less. That being said, it can sometimes make it tricky to book accommodations as this rate can often screw locals so they have to rework how they are paid. It also can affect how your card can be charged - it took me paying smaller increments to my host via credit card every other day (because it would decline larger payments) AND then going to an ATM for the final remaining amount, to pay for my stay. Kind of crazy (and annoying)!

If you visit any of these spots, tag @accentgolden and let me know your favorites!