How I Spent Four Nights in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Just casually modeling in the Piedras Rojas section of the San Pedro de Atacama desert
After a week in Peru, I was off to Chile for some time in the desert and more mountain time (but different mountains, ya know?). If you’re looking to visit Machu Picchu, read my tips before you go here! A friend recommended San Pedro de Atacama as a “must stop” on my backpacking route so, of course, I added it into my itinerary. I ended up meeting up with some friends I met in Ecuador, which made for an even more fun few days, to explore this otherworldly terrain.
Once I arrived at the airport in Calama, after a 20+ hour journey from Cusco, I found a bus that would take me to my hostel in San Pedro de Atacama. This the easiest and most affordable mode of transportation, just head to the arrivals section of the airport where you’ll find a lot of companies that drive to Atacama. This cost me around $15,000 (CLP) - a little over $15 (USD) if you see those extra zeros and start to panic. Because of when I arrived - both time of day and year - I had the whole bus to myself! That being said, pack snacks and water and plan for a little bit of a drive from the airport to your stay. It took me about 90 minutes to get from one to the other.
Here are some of my favorite things I got up to:
Walking the town of San Pedro de Atacama - Honestly, feels straight out of an old western, but present day and in South America. The streets are dirt, the buildings are made of adobe, and the way the sun blazes (and sets) is a sight to behold. There are some many local shops as well as places to eat and plenty of tour agencies, that you can easily walk into and sort your next adventure.
Emporio Andino - Awesome stop for lunch - the empanadas are amazing - or for grabbing a frappé. I went here three times during my few days in the desert. Also, a great option if you need to pack a lunch for later - which I also did one day, when we were biking out of town and wanted a “picnic” option.
Market in Plaza San Pedro de Atacama - If you know me, you know I love a market. If you exist wherever I’m visiting, I will find you. This is a perfect local market with pop-ups around the plaza, mainly featuring local artisans. Again, absolutely yes for me.
Piedras Rojas, Lagunas Altiplanicas, Laguna Chaca, Salar de Atacama - We booked a day tour to cover some of the nearby sites. I genuinely loved all of these stops. The color contrast of the terrain against the backdrop of the mountains plus the water and/or salt pools. Not to mention all the FLAMINGOS. Some of my favorite South America photos are from this day, so I highly recommend a trip out.
There are also plenty of spots to rent bikes in town, which we did. Funnily enough, I love to bike, but not off-road, so South America biking just wasn’t comfortable for me (I also realized I’ve become a nervous nelly in my old age (jk) so riding fast through rocky, dirt roads and giants pools of rain… ain’t the stuff for me. I was talked into it by the group I was with but turned back pretty swiftly as I also had to fly out that day and wasn’t looking to bust it and be covered in muck for a long travel day/night ahead. That being said, it’s honestly not that bad, I’m just a ninny, so I definitely recommend exploring the area around town and slightly beyond, that way!
If you’re planning a trip to the desert, here are some takeaways and tips I learned and am sharing with you:
Don’t Let the Desert Fool You - It gets chilly, even during the day (and even when it starts off feeling warm). For any of your Chile plans, be sure to pack warmer layers (or plan to wear every layer you’ve packed… like me) to combat the chill.
Make Plans to Meet Back Up - Backpacking solo can be incredibly lonely. You’re not always gonna find friends in every stop you make, so take advantage of the connections you do build when you build them. Being able to meet back up with friends in Chile, who I met in Ecuador, made my visit to San Pedro de Atacama so much better and helped rejuvenate me for the next leg of my trip. Not to mention, the one woman was a doctor and with my stomach issues still plaguing me from Ecuador, her guidance was so appreciated.
Tours and Buses are Available but Might I Recommend a Car? - Even though I loved my various tours, I know I would have been able to see more of the sights in a car. When you compare the cost of a rental from the airport in Calama against that of transportation and tour groups… it could end up being more affordable if there are a few of you to split. A car also offers you the ability to stop and peruse where you’d like, versus being at the mercy of a designated schedule. While yes, you do gain valuable insights from guides, sometimes I’d rather explore on my own and Google later (or vice versa).
Keep a Stock of Water - Unsurprisingly I was extra parched in the desert. Thankfully, when I arrived one of my friends had a spare water for me (as the grocery store nearby was already closed). Even though it’s chilly in certain areas, the sun is strong and the climate will dry you out.
Note Opening & Closing Times - This is especially important concerning grocery stores and restaurants. I noticed this a lot throughout my time in South America but stores will close earlier than you expect and plenty will be closed for periods in the afternoon - especially in more off-season times.
Bus “Taxis” Are Often Easier and Comparable to Public Transport - My friend and I walked to the bus station near our hostel in Atacama, presuming that it would be cheaper than booking a pick-up/drop-off service. Thankfully, I happened to chat with the manager of our stay, the Mamatierra Hostel, who showed me how to book transport services to/from the airport at an affordable rate AND pick-up/drop-off at the exact locations. He said that if we were to take public buses it wouldn’t take us directly to the airport we would have to grab a taxi from the city of Calama to the airport.
Enjoy your time in the desert and take all the sassy pictures - I’d bet money your tour guide is one of the best photographers/videographers on the trip. If you’re looking to go further south, check out my takeaways from my visit to Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine!
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