Itinerary: 3 Nights in Birnam & Dunkeld, Scotland
I’m a sucker for a quaint and cozy small town. Add in some colorful buildings, a local bakery, and artisan shops and I’m looking at real estate. Birnam and Dunkled hold all the charms I dream about, even amidst dreary Scottish weather. I visited the weekend of Christmas Eve, so the charm factor was high with lights and holiday spirit - as well as folks ready for the clock to strike five so they could begin their holiday hibernation.
I stayed in the village of Birnam, which I learned served as one of the locations in Perthshire where Beatrix Potter spent her childhood summers. I mean, automatic charm check, right? With a few shops on the main street, it was peaceful and quiet plus an easy 15-minute walk over the bridge to Dunkeld. Here’s how I spent my long weekend in Perthshire:
Day 0.5 - Edinburgh to Birnam
As I’ve mentioned before, I was going to pastry school in Edinburgh so I scoped out places to visit on the weekends. This was my last weekend in Scotland so I wanted to chill “travel hannah” a bit and not demand a checklist, but enjoy what I could cover during my time. I drove up to Birnam in the evening after school, checked into the Merryburn Hotel, and called it an easy night in. I mean, I had to finish my Harry Potter binge in Scotland, ok? Plus, nothing was opened.
Quick shoutout to the Merryburn before we continue. Such a charming refurbished Victorian home with spacious guest rooms that come fully equipped with everything you need for a few nights. I stayed in the twin room with the bright yellow accents and Peter Rabbit in the kitchen. Loved it.
Day 1 - Birnam and Dunkeld
I started my day strolling down from my hotel, around Birnam. The Beatrix Potter Gardens behind the Birnam Arts Center are charming - I mean the sign alone brought me in - and an easy walkthrough. There is a local second-hand bookshop that serves some beverages as well as a gallery and a small grocery-convenience store among a few other stops. Ultimately, I spent my time in town looking at the architecture, waterways, and overall landscape (or what I could see of it at least).
From Birnam, I followed the sidewalk down and over to the bridge that would take me to Dunkeld. I’m being 100% honest when I say, I fell in love with the town before I completed the walk across. The River Tay rushing past, the colorful buildings that have clearly withstood the test of time - weather be damned, the way I could see myself day-to-day there was no joke. Here were some of my favorite stops:
Going Pottie - You had me at “pottie.” This is a cute pottery studio where you can purchase creations - even order your own gnome - as well as paint your own.
Atholl Gallery - Variety of contemporary art pieces here (for many budgets)
Palmerston’s Cafe - Grabbed a quick bite of soup here as well as a hot tea. What can I say, I was chilly!
The Vintage Shop - A wee little shop with really cool finds packed inside.
Kat ‘n Kat - An artisan workshop with loads of creations from local artists that support ethical and sustainable work.
Rustic Rose Vintage - Another vintage shop with loads of good finds in a small space.
Aran Bakery - A dream bakery of mine. Not packed with every good imaginable but a simple stop filled with quality, fresh-made bakes. Get there early though, as they get lean quickly.
The Lon - A sister store to Aran, acting as somewhat of a boutique grocery but for pantry items.
The Blue Magpie - A lifestyle and gift store in the center of town, just behind the bakery.
Corbenic Shop and Cafe - Stop for some cute odds and ends and even a small bite or drink.
The Scottish Deli - This is an honorable mention. Saw a lot of recommendations for it but didn’t make it during my time in town. Try it and let me know how it is!
Honestly, this was one of my favorite days in Scotland and it was calm and casual. There are so many spots to walk through and who knows, maybe you’ll get an organ solo when you visit the cathedral. I closed it out with a Tesco run before heading back to my hotel for some bolognese and The Holiday.
Day 2 - Birnam to Aberfeldy to Pitlochry to Birnam
Supposedly celebs hit up Aberfeldy as a Scottish retreat so I figured, why not? The drive through the countryside was lovely. I woke up to one of my few sunny days in Scotland complete with at least five rainbows throughout the day - Merry Christmas to me. Yes, this was Christmas Eve so some spots weren’t in full swing but ‘twas a lovely day nonetheless.
I started at the Aberfeldy Watermill Bookshop & Cafe. I mean you have to physically block me from going into any bookstore. It was deceptively full and included a small cafe downstairs which, when I visited, happened to include some live music. Sadly, my bag was already too full of books or I would have been dangerous inside. From here I simply strolled the streets, including a pretty walk through Lower Birks Park, before getting back in my car and heading towards Pitlochry.
Pitlochry was cute, slightly more commercial feeling than Aberfeldy… but not. There was much more hustle and bustle happening here as well a number of places to grab a bite to eat or drink. I also happened across an interesting line-up along the river (see picture below).
Post-Pitlochry (that was undeniable alliteration that I needed to include) I was hoping to make it up to the Grampian Mountains and other parts of the Cairngorms National Park but sadly the weather turned early and was not in my favor. Mother Nature was weeping for me.
After a quick stop for an Earl Grey at The Birnam Reader Bookshop I called it an early, movie-night in.
Day 3 - Birnam to Edinburgh
Sadly, this was the day I had to catch my flight back to the States. Luckily, Birnam is just shy of an hour's drive to the airport - not so luckily, my flight was at 9 AM. So it was a 4 AM up-and-out kinda day.
Overall, massively enjoyed my weekend in Dunkeld and am already thinking of when I can go back.
Be sure to tag @accentgolden in your travel pictures, I love to see them!
